I picked up the Kershaw Blur in S30V steel (1670S30V) as a replacement to my recently broken SOG Flash II folder. This is my new EDC (every day carry). I went a few weeks without a pocket knife, which left me feeling naked, useless, and well, altogether unmanly. I find that the times when I could truly use a pocket knife are the times when I don’t have one. For example, I would’ve really liked to carry a pocket knife on my recent trip to Peru. But of course, my SOG was broken and my newly acquired Kershaw was sitting in an Amazon box on the front porch at home.
Initial Impressions

The knife came in a spartan paper box. At least it wasn’t in plastic packaging. I hate knives that come in a plastic clam shell package. You shouldn’t need a knife to open a knife. It also comes with a small foldout product manual that explains the warranty, care instructions, etc.

At first glance, the Kershaw reminded me of the SOG. Black polycarbonate handle with a folding, assisted-opener blade. But in the hand, it has quite a different feel. There is a good amount of weight in the blade, but it balances the knife perfectly. Also, this is a Ken Onion design so it has quite a bit of subtle style and architecture.

Blade

I opted to get the Blur in S30v steel. There is a lot of contention on the benefits of S30V. Some say its just the latest “wonder steel”, propped up by hype and marketing until another better knife steel comes out. Others say it really makes a difference over the standard steel used in the regular Blur, both in ease of sharpening and edge retention. Either way, I don’t really care if its the flavor of the month, there will definitely be a better steel to come out eventually. But as an EDC, I need something that will hold an edge, get very sharp, and be moderately corrosion resistant. So I opted to pay the extra $20 for the S30V version to give it a try and see if it lives up to its name.

The stone-washed finish on the blade steel (only available on S30V) is excellent and an added treat over the standard polished stainless. Personally, I think the satin look adds a nice depth to the knife overall. The 3 3/8” blade profile has a subtle complexity as well, not noticeable until you take a closer look in person. The cutting edge profile of the blade is re-curved, as you can see it bends out but then back in. I think this will come in handy for delicate tasks such as whittling. The overall profile of the spine is almost a slight drop point to comes up like a slight trailing point. The spine varies in thickness, thicker at each end than in the middle. This thickness follows contours of the grind line on the side of the blade. However, the grind line that rises up from the cutting edge does not flatten out to the same thickness as the spine. I think it almost acts as a fuller, to lighten to the weight of the blade, but it may also have some effect on the rigidity or flexibility. If anyone has any thoughts on this, please let me know. It’s hard to describe but can be seen in the photo on the right.

 

 

Handle

As mentioned before, there is a bit more weight in the blade than the handle, but balances well. The 4 1/2” handle, made of 6061-T6 aluminum, is CNC machined and of excellent quality. They feature Trac-Tec inserts, which appear to be a rubber particulate material applied to panels on the grip. They almost remind me of the surfaces of high school tracks, made of tiny bits of chopped of tire. They are much firmer than tire rubber, but offer a nice grip. They are not rough on the hand, but not slick either. The overall handle length fits my hand well, even though slight on the large size. However, I have smaller hands. The handle also has a belt clip on the back side, which is tighter than a drum. Although a loose, bendable belt clip is bad, this one is so tight I can’t even pull it back hand. It does accept a jean’s pocket fairly well, but requires a significant amount of downward force to seat fully. Enough that I have to hold my pants with the other hand to do it. Also, when pocketed with the clip, the knife rides pretty high. High enough that it definitely makes it known you are carrying a knife. Both good and bad, I suppose.

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The Ka-Bar BK11 Becker Necker is a small fixed blade skeletonized knife designed for daily carry and use. What makes this unique from most daily carry knives is that it is designed to be carried around your neck. Wow…good work Ka-Bar marketing guy, clever name. This review is being written after about 6 months of use.

It is a 1095 steel body, which Ka-Bar is known for. This is a high carbon steel (most kitchen knives are 440 grade) which means it will hold a sharp edge longer with the trade off being it is more brittle. Blade length is 3.25” with an overall length of 6.75”. Knife weight alone is 2.4 ounces (almost 70 grams). Its edge profile angle is 15 degrees. It comes with a glass-filled nylon sheath and some paracord. Price for the knife will run you about $30-50.

When you first get the knife it has decent blade sharpness on it, a bit coarse if anything. More than adequate for what most people will need. If you are in the hair splitting business, about 10 minutes on a powered wet stone will get you an amazing edge. Speaking of the edge, after some serious wedging and prying (including some steel-on-steel action), the blade is as straight as I first got it, albeit with some paint scraped off. I’ve even opened several cans of baked beans with it.

The handle is almost perfectly sized for my hand. I have a 7.5 hand size. It is a little small for my hand but the index-finger cutout in the handle helps you maintain good control of the blade. The balance favors a bit to the blade side, which is good with such a small knife. The case is well made and firmly holds the knife in place. It enters and exits the case with an authoritative snap. After about a week of use I was able to remove and replace it with one hand and it has not lost its snug fit so far. I was nervous having the knife around my neck at first but it has never once accidentally come out.

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Want non-stick? Put your teflon-coated, overpriced, part of a matching set skillet away. Try out cast-iron.

Why Cast Iron?

Cast iron has been around for a long time. It fell by the way side when stainless steel and then Teflon came around. Stainless steel came into fashion because it was lighter, didn’t rust, easy to clean, and pretty much just looked pretty. It had some downsides though. Heat retention is much lower in stainless and food stuck to them like a son of a gun. Teflon came around and solved the sticking problem. Teflon, or polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), was developed by DuPont accidentally. It’s a slick thermoplastic that basically has a high melting point. This makes it suitable to be applied to cookware, as its stable at all but the highest temperatures. However, its not a good to use while baking as well as with any cooking utensils harder than the coating. You’ll scrape that plastic off quicker than you ever thought. And guess where it likely winds up? In you!

On the other hand, cast iron cookware has the potential to add iron into your food just from cooking. No strange polymers, chemicals, or leeching to worry about. Read more about it here, in a an article published in the Journal of Food Science

How Does Cast Iron Work?

Cast iron has better heat retention and develops it’s own nonstick surface the more you use it. Better yet, you’re encouraged not to wash it! Sound to good to be true? Let me explain.

Firstly, that heavy cast iron pan is heavy for a reason. Cast iron is a dense material with very high thermal mass. What this means for you is that although it make take a bit longer to heat up than stainless (maybe a few more minutes) it retains that heat better and stays at a steady temperature. I mentioned this in my guide to buying a gas grill, but when adding cooler food to a hot surface, the food actually cools the cooking surface considerably upon contact. The lower the cooking surface’s ability to retain that heat, the bigger the temperature drop. This is where sticking loves to occur. Think of putting an egg on a cold pan and heating up, it’s bound to become a sticky mess. Throw that same egg on a super-hot greased surface, it’s going to slide off!

You may have noticed, I mentioned grease. Grease or any good fat is a great way to help build up the “patina” on a cast iron pan. A patina is a build up carbon and flavoring, accumulated from cooking with grease and various foods. Think of a patina as a personality, it changes and grows the more its used. The key is to not wash it off! All a cast iron pan needs, once its developed a patina, is a quick wipe with a paper towel. Much like the food you just cooked, the leftover bits of food will slide right off.  (For extra stuck-on leftovers, boiling a small amount of water and wiping clean usually does the trick).

Oil, along with developing that patina, is also what preserves, protects, and maintains your cast iron. After using it and wiping it clean, a few drops of oil spread around with a paper towel will create a seal between your beautiful cast iron surface and ambient moisture. Even if you’ve wiped it dry, there is still moisture in the air in the form of humidity. There’s also always a chance of water unknowingly splashing or dripping onto the pan wherever its stored.  Iron and water create rust, but the layer of oil separate the two… meaning no rust!

Another benefit of cast iron is it’s versatility for cooking. What other pan can go from stove top, to the oven, to the grill, or to a camp fire? A cast iron skillet can go just about anywhere and accept just about any heat source. I love cooking on the grill with mine, especially when cooking up burgers. It is great way to put the extra burner space to use sauteing onions or heating up sides! I’ve even cooked eggs for breakfast on the grill using a cast iron skillet.

Does the Kind of Cast Iron Matter?

Paul Wheaton over at richsoil.com really opened up my eyes to the different types of cast iron. Please check his lengthy and well done article here.  I’m currently using my second cast iron skillet after the first one broken (from being dropped on a concrete floor). Both my skillets are from Lodge. I was a bit naive to the various brands of cast iron out there. Paul Wheaton expounds on the advantage of older, vintage brands like Griswold and Wagner. Back in its hay day, cast iron skillets were manufactured using a better (but more expensive) means of grinding or machining out the cooking surface after casting. Today, they just pour or cast molten iron in a mold and that’s it. No machining. The machining part led to a glassy, smoother surface, which required less seasoning and breaking in, so to speak. That’s not to say today’s cookware made by Lodge are bad. They just take a bit longer to break in. Skillets made by Griswold and Wager, from the early to mid 1900′s can be found on eBay. They range in price from $10 to $100 (for collector’s pieces).  I’ was planning to buy a Griswold very soon to add to the Lodge skillet I already have. However, my girlfriend’s grandmother kindly gave us 2 Griswold pans a week after I wrote this article. A 6” and an 8” to go with the 10” Lodge!

I hope this article helped you out if you were thinking about using cast iron and were wondering what the benefits are.

Here are some tips to take away:

1. Make sure the skillet or pan you buy lay’s flat and is free of chipping. Sitting unevenly will lead to uneven heat transfer and chipping can result in cracking as well harbor troublesome rust-prone zones.

2. Let the cast-iron, just like any other pan, come up to heat fully before cooking. About medium heat is usually enough heat to get it good for even stir-frying.

3. Fat while cooking is good! But not all fats are good! Butter, vegetable oil, bacon grease, and canola oil are good for cooking. Olive oil is acceptable but can sometimes impart some funky flavors into the pan (Olive oil goes rancid very quickly and will sour the pan when not in use).

4. Rinse, don’t wash. Don’t use dish soap on a cast iron pan, it will strip that lovely patina clean off. And never, under any circumstances run your cast iron through a dishwasher. Along with the soap, the oxidative agents in dish detergent will destroy your pan. Scrape off any stuck on bits and a quick wipe with a damp paper towel is usually all you’ll need.

4. Fat after cooking is good too! Cook with the fat of your choice, but stick with vegetable oil to give the pan a light coating after its clean and dry. If storing pans stacked up, a cloth between each layer helps prevent the pans from scraping against each other and soaks up any moisture that may collect between them.

5. Paul Wheaton recommends using a sharp metal spatula. The sharp steel is good for developing a smoother patina, as it scrapes and levels the surface as you use it. Not only is it harmless to use sharp steel (unlike Teflon non-stick) it’s actually beneficial! I’d recommend it too, merely because a sharp and thin steel spatula is much easier to use than the plastic utensils made for non-stick cookware. Wheaton recommends any of these by Dexter Russel: 2 1/2” mini turner or the larger  5-inch turner

 

Here are some before and after photos of a second Griswold #6 skillet I got from my girlfriend’s grandmother. I’ve compared this skillet, that hasnt been used in decades against the one we’ve been using constantly for the past year. Our original #6 was in worse shape than this new one, so you can see what a little seasoning and TLC can do to restore that glassy surface!

Old #6

Regularly Used #6

 

Slant Logo #6 - Regularly Used

 

 

 

I love stuff. Call me materialistic, call me shallow, but I love stuff. I like gear, tools, gadgets and clothes. They bring me joy. Yes, other things bring me joy: my girlfriend, my dogs, my family, my life, and my friends. But cool things are cool things. I want to die a man with a lot of toys. I want people to call dibs on all my stuff. My girlfriend’s grandfather passed away early for his years. But in his time, he collected, made, and created such a collection of awesome things, I’ve spent hours in his old workshop and have hardly scraped the surface of his life. Something as simple as a dinged up carpenter’s hammer held countless untold stories and experiences.  Here is my list of cool, manly swag I want to get someday. S start calling dibs now.

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I’ve had the Osprey Atmos 65 for over two years now. It’s gone on it’s share of overnights, day hikes, weekend lake trips, and even went with me on our trip to Singapore/Malaysia. This was my first purchase of a “high end” pack at a price tag of $240. This replaced a smaller sized EMS pack, that just wasn’t large enough. The previous pack, which I can’t remember the name of (sold it to a friend)  made a great day pack or winter mountaineering pack when I needed to carry extra gear like crampons at 40L. This Osprey pack, however, adds an extra 15L of capacity, as well as extra pockets and compartments.

The overall layout of the pack is a top loader with a free float lid. It does not have a side access zipper, which can take some getting used to. You can’t access your kit without having to dig through the rest or reorganizing. However, due to the Atmos’s anatomy, you would have to reorganize your kit even with a side zip. What do I mean? Let me explain. Continue reading »

 

Head over to Mystery Ranch’s blog Mysteryrants.com where they are giving away another free piece of gear! Up for grabs this time is a Mystery Ranch Booty Bag, a little carry-all tote that would be great for hauling around loose odds and ends. Carry all your plundered booty like groceries, climbing shoes and harnesses, pieces of flare, or maybe even ammo. All you have to do is comment on their blog post in your best pirate vernacular and the winner will be drawn at random on August 8th, 2011. Tell them Sahil at manualofman.com sent ya!

Also check out Mystery Ranch’s main site for a look at some of their awesome packs, inspired and designed for the outdoor enthusiast, hunter, and wild firefighter. Montana based, designed, made, and field tested.

 

This is my review of the SOG Seal Pup Elite (E37) knife.

Man, I love this knife.

Let me explain. This knife was the physical embodiment of a boyhood obsession me and my friends shared for Navy SEALS, guns, and anything that said tactical. Video games like Counterstrike, Metal Gear Solid, Rainbow Six. Movies like The Rock, Navy Seals, and Under Siege. Wearing anything black, shooting paintball guns, airsoft guns, BB guns, imaginary guns.

We used to read reviews about SOG knives when we were teenagers. The original SOG M-37 Seal Pup was our main focus and how it passed all the real Navy SEAL product tests. Hell, the thing was even in Counter-Strike (so awesome). But alas, the knife cost over $60 bucks, and that was a lot of cash at that age.

So when I finally graduated college, had some cash flow, and wanted to spend the $60 bucks on my first “really nice” knife, it was like Christmas.  It was being a kid again. A kid with a full wallet, more need of a good knife, and not needing to ask your parents if you could get one. Also, the original SOG Seal Knife was upgraded to the Seal Pup Elite. A little smaller and with an updated design. It was more of a personal fulfillment purchase than an actual utilitarian purchase. In other words, I bought it just to buy it and not really because I intended to use it.

And that’s just the thing. It’s a great knife. It’s beautiful. It’s quality. It’s bad ass.  But in reality, it’s pretty useless for me and most people. I’m not a Navy SEAL. Nor am I even a combat soldier.  That’s who this knife was designed for. Not really bushcrafting, not really skinning, and it can only decently clean a fish. It was designed for combat. And designed well.

But I won’t lie, it does feel great to hold while watching The Rock. :)

Let me explain why I think this is a really great-but-useless knife for the average person.

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Knives have always been a mystical thing to me. My father indoctrinated me to the usefulness, danger, and beauty of knives at a young age. Since that first Swiss Army knife my father gave me, I’ve been drawn to blades. Even after I cut my finger wide open, recovered from the instinctual immediate fear, I fell in love more. I can be drawn to a knife by the beauty in its design, the subtle contours of its lines, or picturing what jobs it could be put to.

When it comes to the solution aspect of knives, I’ve becoming more and more in need of a single knife that can pull double or even triple duty for a variety of sports. Although I would love to have a knife for every purpose, and someday I may, I can’t afford that yet. My other pursuits dictate the need for practicality and multiple uses. This same tenet rings true in many cases where less is more. More specifically, when packing a bag for a foray into the outdoors.
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It took quite a bit of time to finally pull the trigger on a piece of Sitka Gear. It wasn’t that I doubted the worth associated with the price tag… it was my reluctance to drop over $250+ on a jacket for a sport that I haven’t determined I even enjoy yet. However, I’m a gear-hound at heart and a sucker for anything shiny, fast, or expensive. So, after spending many weeks searching for the best possible deal and many times filling my cart but closing my browser when it came time to click that Place Order button, I finally did it.

I found a good deal through high-mountain-outfitters on a Jetstream Jacket in Open Country Optifade ($260 marked down from $330). It took me some deciding to go with the Optifade Open Country pattern too. I am in New England and know that the majority of New England hunting is relegated to the tree-stand, so the Optifade Forest pattern was the likely choice. But, seeing the aim of the Forest pattern line – which promotes stationary warmth over heat-generating mobility, I went with the Open Country. It’s still effective in a tree-stand, camouflage-wise, just not optimized as the Forest is. And although the majority of the Open Country series is designed for steep ascents and to shed heat and sweat quickly (not exactly New England deer country) – I can make it pull double-duty as a dependable soft shell for hiking. I may be a bit colder in a tree stand, but that can be remedied with better layering. I’d rather have to the freedom to regulate my body temperature than be stuck in a hot parka that won’t breathe.

Initial impressions of the Jetstream jacket showed me that a lot of thought and function-testing went into the design. It is tailored in such a way that maintains the maximum range of motion while still keeping my ass protected from the elements. Just looking at it, there is stitching and seams running at seemingly odd angles, but when I put it on, I quickly saw that every seam and line are carefully placed. For instance, on the sleeve, you don’t get just the one long seam running the length of the arm, joining the fabric at one point the entire length. Instead, I have a seam that comes to the elbow, then splits into two more along the forearm, which keeps the elbow from bunching up too much. The result is a jacket that doesn’t get in the way when scrambling over rocks, scooting around pines, and most importantly, drawing a bow.
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