This article is a continuation to my write-up on creating a basic emergency power outage plan. In that article, I took a very rudimentary approach to basic emergency preparedness, lights, water, food, etc. In this article, I’d like to highlight some more advanced preparations you can make that focus specifically on hurricane or snowstorm threats. This is in light of the approaching Hurricane Irene which is moving its way up the  Eastern seaboard on the writing of this article (Aug ’11). This is the first hurricane (or possibly tropical storm by the time it reaches) to actually have a good chance of hitting New England in quite some time. For many of my friends who are now living on their own, it’s their first hurricane to prepare for. The same precautions made for hurricanes in the warmer months can also be applied to snowstorms in the winter months, with a few measures to deal with the cold, of course.

I’m breaking the article up into two main sections, water and wind. These are two major players in any storm so I will give various ways they can cause damage and how you can prevent or clean up damage.

Water

If you followed my precautions for storing up some extra water, you should be all set. However, in the case of heavy rains, one must also deal with the impact of water through flooding and ingress.  Flooded basements and first floors are the bane of a homeowner’s existence. During hurricanes, it’s high water levels flooding in.  In the winter, its likely pipe freezing during an extended outage and flooding once the power comes back on. It’s a good idea to go outside and survey your property prior to a storm, or even the next time there is a moderate rain storm. Watch where the water moves, look for hills, depressions, and soil types. Is your house situated on a hill? Is it at the top, side or bottom? Obviously, if you live at the top of a hill, the likelihood of flooding is low but still possible. Side and bottoms of hills present more of a problem, with the side being slightly less. In the case of a house embedded on the slope of a hill, you’ll likely have one side of your home entrenched and the other side open. Large volumes of water must work it’s way around or underneath your home, as it flows downhill. There may also be depressions around your home that its likely to collect, these are the areas you must note. For those homes at the base of a hill, flooding should be a higher priority.

Sandbags

No, they aren’t just used by the National Guard for building up levies. And no, they aren’t just put in the trunk of your car during heavy snow (which is actually a great way to get dual-purpose). Sandbags are a great tool for holding water back from doorways, ground floor windows, and garage door seals. These are very easy means for water to enter your home. Empty sandbags are cheap online ahead of time or they can be found at your local hardware supply or feed store. Trash bags can be used in a pinch, as long as the top is sealed. You’ll have to use more trash bags because you can’t fit 50lbs of sand in even the heftiest hefty bag. If you have easy access to sandpits, then you can save on buying play sand – allowing you to leave the sand bags empty until you’ll need them. If you don’t have access to sandpits or clean fill (dirt free of large, rocks, debris, etc) buying a few bags of play sand is your solution. You can keep them bagged in their original packaging indefinitely as long as you can keep them dry. If not, you’ll have to fill them and store them. Use them in the winter, and keep them stacked and somewhere at ground level, preferably on a concrete floor. You don’t want over that much weight centralized in one location on an upper floor, especially if its going to stay there for extended periods of time. You can also buy sandbags prefilled, commonly called “tube sand”. They are usually categorized by pound rating. I keep several 75lb sand bags, but that’s also because I use them in my car for the weight. Weight does not play as huge a factor in preventing minor flooding as it does in something larger scale, like reinforcing a levy against river flooding. And keep in mind you’ll have to lift these! It’s okay to buy less poundage, I won’t tell anyone. What’s more important is determining how many you’ll need according to the dimensions of the sandbags. For flood prevention, get them in tube form, its usually how you find them. Buy enough to stack them at least 2 high, in a C-shape around your doors or windows, aim for about a 1-foot clearance away from the door. For most normal size door thresholds, that’s about 4-6 sand bags. Garage doors will be quite a bit more. Why a C-shape? So you can still use the door! It also provides you with some extra room to add more bags if needed. Continue reading »

 

Want non-stick? Put your teflon-coated, overpriced, part of a matching set skillet away. Try out cast-iron.

Why Cast Iron?

Cast iron has been around for a long time. It fell by the way side when stainless steel and then Teflon came around. Stainless steel came into fashion because it was lighter, didn’t rust, easy to clean, and pretty much just looked pretty. It had some downsides though. Heat retention is much lower in stainless and food stuck to them like a son of a gun. Teflon came around and solved the sticking problem. Teflon, or polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), was developed by DuPont accidentally. It’s a slick thermoplastic that basically has a high melting point. This makes it suitable to be applied to cookware, as its stable at all but the highest temperatures. However, its not a good to use while baking as well as with any cooking utensils harder than the coating. You’ll scrape that plastic off quicker than you ever thought. And guess where it likely winds up? In you!

On the other hand, cast iron cookware has the potential to add iron into your food just from cooking. No strange polymers, chemicals, or leeching to worry about. Read more about it here, in a an article published in the Journal of Food Science

How Does Cast Iron Work?

Cast iron has better heat retention and develops it’s own nonstick surface the more you use it. Better yet, you’re encouraged not to wash it! Sound to good to be true? Let me explain.

Firstly, that heavy cast iron pan is heavy for a reason. Cast iron is a dense material with very high thermal mass. What this means for you is that although it make take a bit longer to heat up than stainless (maybe a few more minutes) it retains that heat better and stays at a steady temperature. I mentioned this in my guide to buying a gas grill, but when adding cooler food to a hot surface, the food actually cools the cooking surface considerably upon contact. The lower the cooking surface’s ability to retain that heat, the bigger the temperature drop. This is where sticking loves to occur. Think of putting an egg on a cold pan and heating up, it’s bound to become a sticky mess. Throw that same egg on a super-hot greased surface, it’s going to slide off!

You may have noticed, I mentioned grease. Grease or any good fat is a great way to help build up the “patina” on a cast iron pan. A patina is a build up carbon and flavoring, accumulated from cooking with grease and various foods. Think of a patina as a personality, it changes and grows the more its used. The key is to not wash it off! All a cast iron pan needs, once its developed a patina, is a quick wipe with a paper towel. Much like the food you just cooked, the leftover bits of food will slide right off.  (For extra stuck-on leftovers, boiling a small amount of water and wiping clean usually does the trick).

Oil, along with developing that patina, is also what preserves, protects, and maintains your cast iron. After using it and wiping it clean, a few drops of oil spread around with a paper towel will create a seal between your beautiful cast iron surface and ambient moisture. Even if you’ve wiped it dry, there is still moisture in the air in the form of humidity. There’s also always a chance of water unknowingly splashing or dripping onto the pan wherever its stored.  Iron and water create rust, but the layer of oil separate the two… meaning no rust!

Another benefit of cast iron is it’s versatility for cooking. What other pan can go from stove top, to the oven, to the grill, or to a camp fire? A cast iron skillet can go just about anywhere and accept just about any heat source. I love cooking on the grill with mine, especially when cooking up burgers. It is great way to put the extra burner space to use sauteing onions or heating up sides! I’ve even cooked eggs for breakfast on the grill using a cast iron skillet.

Does the Kind of Cast Iron Matter?

Paul Wheaton over at richsoil.com really opened up my eyes to the different types of cast iron. Please check his lengthy and well done article here.  I’m currently using my second cast iron skillet after the first one broken (from being dropped on a concrete floor). Both my skillets are from Lodge. I was a bit naive to the various brands of cast iron out there. Paul Wheaton expounds on the advantage of older, vintage brands like Griswold and Wagner. Back in its hay day, cast iron skillets were manufactured using a better (but more expensive) means of grinding or machining out the cooking surface after casting. Today, they just pour or cast molten iron in a mold and that’s it. No machining. The machining part led to a glassy, smoother surface, which required less seasoning and breaking in, so to speak. That’s not to say today’s cookware made by Lodge are bad. They just take a bit longer to break in. Skillets made by Griswold and Wager, from the early to mid 1900′s can be found on eBay. They range in price from $10 to $100 (for collector’s pieces).  I’ was planning to buy a Griswold very soon to add to the Lodge skillet I already have. However, my girlfriend’s grandmother kindly gave us 2 Griswold pans a week after I wrote this article. A 6” and an 8” to go with the 10” Lodge!

I hope this article helped you out if you were thinking about using cast iron and were wondering what the benefits are.

Here are some tips to take away:

1. Make sure the skillet or pan you buy lay’s flat and is free of chipping. Sitting unevenly will lead to uneven heat transfer and chipping can result in cracking as well harbor troublesome rust-prone zones.

2. Let the cast-iron, just like any other pan, come up to heat fully before cooking. About medium heat is usually enough heat to get it good for even stir-frying.

3. Fat while cooking is good! But not all fats are good! Butter, vegetable oil, bacon grease, and canola oil are good for cooking. Olive oil is acceptable but can sometimes impart some funky flavors into the pan (Olive oil goes rancid very quickly and will sour the pan when not in use).

4. Rinse, don’t wash. Don’t use dish soap on a cast iron pan, it will strip that lovely patina clean off. And never, under any circumstances run your cast iron through a dishwasher. Along with the soap, the oxidative agents in dish detergent will destroy your pan. Scrape off any stuck on bits and a quick wipe with a damp paper towel is usually all you’ll need.

4. Fat after cooking is good too! Cook with the fat of your choice, but stick with vegetable oil to give the pan a light coating after its clean and dry. If storing pans stacked up, a cloth between each layer helps prevent the pans from scraping against each other and soaks up any moisture that may collect between them.

5. Paul Wheaton recommends using a sharp metal spatula. The sharp steel is good for developing a smoother patina, as it scrapes and levels the surface as you use it. Not only is it harmless to use sharp steel (unlike Teflon non-stick) it’s actually beneficial! I’d recommend it too, merely because a sharp and thin steel spatula is much easier to use than the plastic utensils made for non-stick cookware. Wheaton recommends any of these by Dexter Russel: 2 1/2” mini turner or the larger  5-inch turner

 

Here are some before and after photos of a second Griswold #6 skillet I got from my girlfriend’s grandmother. I’ve compared this skillet, that hasnt been used in decades against the one we’ve been using constantly for the past year. Our original #6 was in worse shape than this new one, so you can see what a little seasoning and TLC can do to restore that glassy surface!

Old #6

Regularly Used #6

 

Slant Logo #6 - Regularly Used

 

 

 

A Bug Out Bag, or BOB, goes by many names. Get Home Bag (GHB), Get Out of Dodge Bag (GOOD bag) or Armageddon pack as I’ve recently heard it being called (thanks Chip Monk!). No matter what it’s name, it is essentially the same thing. A 72-hour assembly of goods, material, and equipment to keep you safe, alive, and fed in the case of an emergency. The emergency can vary, the specific items in the kit can vary, but the underlying principle remains the same. Preparedness.

We never know when a disaster can happen or predict exactly what that disaster will be. Or even if its a disaster in the first place. A small problem can escalate into a large scale disaster pending the correct circumstances.  A simple flat-tire can be a minor setback if it happens in your driveway. It could be a downright disaster if it happens on a back road in the midst of a snowstorm. Moreover, the necessities during a disaster may vary greatly. An approaching hurricane may prompt you to evacuate your town to a safer region, what items would you take and quickly? Or,if you work an hour away from home like myself, some other large scale disaster, terrorist attack, snow storm, grid failure, may make it impossible for you to drive home. Maybe the disaster makes you getting home to your loved ones, family, or extra supplies of utmost importance? How will you “hoof-it” there?

The key to creating a good Bug Out Bag is versatility. As I mentioned before, you can’t predict the disaster. Therefore, the specific items in your kit could explode into infinity if you try to prepare for everything. By evaluating the similarity between most disasters, one can make a “catch-all” type assortment of goods to keep with them. Continue reading »

 

A friend of mine requested an article on wearing hats to a wedding. First of all, thanks for the request! I encourage requests! Secondly, to anyone reading this article, good on you for having the confidence to wear a hat to a formal event.

I must reiterate: confidence. The key to wearing a hat, to wearing a suit, to wearing anything, is confidence. Confidence in yourself, your attitude, and your look. The major, and I mean MAJOR, faux pas in fashion is lack of confidence. It doesn’t just mean physically appearing confident. Standing up straight, keeping your head up, and being deliberate in your movements are all key tenets to confident posture. It’s confidence in yourself and who you are. The color of your tie, the cut of your suit, the shape your shoes are in all act as visual cues to who you are. Which is why fashion should be chosen deliberately. Not just choosing “what’s in fashion” but choosing what fits “your fashion”.  I’m not a fashion snob by any means, but I do think its an obligation for any man to look good and look the part. And in the end, you feel good. You feel good about yourself to you choose the right clothing to make you feel even better about yourself. It’s a positive feedback loop. I’ll take it.

Before we go further, I should say: Not everyone can wear a hat. Not everyone who wears a hat can wear any hat. Ball caps don’t belong in this conversation, by the way. I’m speaking mainly to classic or formal hats. The fedora. The bowler. The porkpie. The flatcap.  Ball caps are another class entirely, mainly used as a “tool” than an”accent” to your personality.

A hat speaks worlds about your personality. Even how you wear your hat can tell people about you. The tilt, hat etiquette (removing it at the proper time), and the shape its in can all define characteristics about you. It doesn’t have to be a negative thing! The question is, are you ready to accept this? If so, read on!

 The Fedora

The word “fedora” is quite a funny word for a serious hat. It’s widely known, widely worn, but rarely perfectly worn. The best and most popular example (for a reason), was Frank Sinatra. He was known for his fedora and how he wore it.  A fedora, in its original form, is made from velvet, with a crease running lengthwise through the crown, a brim pinched on both sides. Nowadays, you can find them in the larger array of colors than the standard black, brown, or gray. You can also find them in a wider range of materials, from straw to paper. These are useful and fitting for summer months, coupled with a lighter fabric suit. I don’t want to get too bogged down in fashion details, like what color matches what.

The Pork pie

Similar to the fedora, it is generally made from felt or straw. But, unlike the fedora, the pork pie has an indent that runs circularly around the crown. The brim is generally shorter with a pinch. This hat is less formal then the pork pie and has a slight whimsical look to it, especially with the brim flipped up. However, with a dark suit and grim look, you can look downright badass like our friend Mr. Hackman in The French Connection.

 

The Flatcap

Often referred to as a “newsboy”, this is a stiff brimmed, rounded Men’s cap. I don’t generally see this working with many formal suits, but it could be paired with semi-formal to business casual outfits. It’s likely pretty warm and stuffy to be wearing during the summer too, if it’s made of a heavier material. It’s often seen as part of the classic golf look, so you can see how it works with different materials.

 

Those are just a few of the many styles of formal hats, as well as the many styles of those styles. The key to wearing any hat is knowing that it matches your personal style and personality. Moreover, a hat that matches you doesn’t look like its forced or contrived. You want the hat to appear natural and casual (juxtaposed against wearing it with a formal suit, I know). To put it in a negative perspective, you don’t want the hat to look like a novelty or as if part of a costume. That’s the biggest hurdle to overcome, but it’s really not that hard.

One key word of advice for all of you who immediately are going to wear a fedora with a dark suit… forgo the white tie and white shoes. Don’t look like a hit man. You’re better off swapping for a light shirt and darker tie. Try it.

 

Why don’t you own a dehydrator yet? I know, it may sound like an absurd question. It did to me up until a year ago. I remember seeing the Ron Popeil infomercials on TV for the Ron Co Food Dehydrator. Hell, my parents even bought one. But last year, I realized it was a good way to store up food (I’ll do a later post on food storage). It’s also a great way to make jerky, dried trail mixes, fruit roll-ups, and make dried herbs. If you haven’t yet picked up a food dehydrator yet, I would consider a budget-conscious Nesco or a super-duper Excalibur (if you’ve got the dough – i don’t even own one yet). I personally use a Nesco 700-watt and it does the trick pretty well at a great price!

Here’s a great recipe I’ve put together from various sources on how to make your own dehydrated chicken breast dog treats. Don’t buy the crap from China, filled with who knows what (China has notoriously low food safety standards) and don’t pay top dollar for the holistic, organic, over-priced-because-it’s-green treats from the store. Buy some good quality, antibiotic free chicken breast from the store and use this recipe with your food dehydrator.

 Ingredients:

Just one thing: Skinless, boneless, antibiotic-free, additive free chicken breasts/chicken breast tenderloins.

Yes, they are  little more expensive, but by dehydrating, you’re leaving behind a lot of the phosphates, preservatives, and any other nasty stuff they pump into meat nowadays. The water leaving the meat is not necessarily taking these compounds with it, but more likely concentrating them. I don’t care if YOU eat this crap, but don’t feed it to your dog. At least you’ve got a choice! :) Springer Mountain Farms is a decent and not too expensive brand that you can find at most grocery stores, it’s got a blue label with mountains on it.

(Rule of thumb is dehydrating cuts weight by half, so 2 lbs of raw meat will yield 1lb jerky meat. Make as much or as little as you want)

Seasoning (Optional)

I encourage you to try and make them plain first. If you would like to season them (most likely YOUR preference, not the dog’s) then try this seasoning mix. (I’ve never seen a dog turn down a meaty, unseasoned, dog treat)

  1. 1 tsp of canola/vegetable oil just to help seasoning stick to the meat (olive oil can be used by tends to go rancid very quickly)
  2. 1 tsp rosemary
  3. 1 tsp parsley
  4. 1/2 tsp garlic powder
  5. 1/4 tsp liquid smoke

Prepare this in a mix bowl prior to handling chicken (limits cross contamination in kitchen).

Continue reading »

 

I’m a broke college graduate. I’m mired by student loan debt. I’m about to take on a car payment. I hate paying retail. But I still love new things. Oh, precious, shiny, new things. Which is why I love the internet. The internet gives you the ability to shop around for deals without every moving. It allows you to instantly compare prices from a number of vendors, and guarantee’s you the best price on an item. Or does it?

While the internet puts an abundance of purchasing power at your fingertips through pricing and information, it also puts you and me, as the consumer, in a great position through group buying.

What is group buying? It’s simple, if you can get a whole lot of people to buy something, you can offer it at a lower price (if it increases the chance this group will buy it.) Moreover, if you can get a lot of people to register at a website that offers these sorts of deals that share similar interests, the company can offer targeted advertising and sales to a specific demographic, furthering the value of selling at a lower price. Its win-win for the consumer and the vendor. Usually, these sites will send you daily emails covering some of the day’s deals. If you can suffer through those, or have an extra email dedicated to newsletters, coupons, email-lists, it’s a great way to score some stuff on the cheap.

LeftLaneSports.com offers a daily and timed deals on various sporting goods equipment. Unlike the other websites here, this offers more all-around sporting apparel and gear, not just outdoor. They require you to “join” for free and you’ll receive emails. However, they do offer a referral program. For every friend you refer, you will earn a $10 gift certificate after they make their first purchase. Here is my a referral link if you’d like to check them out.

TheClymb.com is operated another “member’s only”  daily deal event website that offers several categories a day. Some days it will be camping equipment, or rock climbing gear, some shoes by Salomon, or headlamps from Petzl. Unlike Steepandcheap, many deals go on at once and it has a more catalog feel, but supplies are limited. Once a deal is sold out, its sold out. They also offer a referral link.

Dvor.com is very, very similar to TheClymb.com (I wonder if they are run by the same company). However, they are generally catering to hunters and “tacticool” minded folk. Firearms accessories, scopes, bino’s, holsters, and tactical clothing can be found here. At pretty good prices. There’s is also a referral program. From my experience, they tend to have varying shipping times. I just ordered a flashlight from here and it took 2 weeks for it to ship out. Also, the shipping was $9.99 and UPS ground (pretty slow). Just make sure the cost of shipping added to the price of the item is still cheaper elsewhere (it may be a wash).  I’m a little disappointed in this, but since I’m not in desperate need of most items right away, the savings make up for the delayed time.

Continue reading »

 

Me fly fishing the Salmon River, prior to urinating myself

This past weekend, March 26th 2011, my friend Jon and I drove out to Syracuse, NY to visit a friend doing med school rotations. However, we also came because Syracuse is 30 minutes south of Pulaski and Altmar, NY – home of some of the best steel head and salmon fishing on the east coast. The Salmon River, which exits into Lake Ontario, experiences several salmon runs, and near year-round steel head, brown trout, and brook trout fishing.  We are talking monster sized trout and salmon here. Far larger than the browns and brookies I pull up here in NH. This was mine and my friend’s first attempts tackling freshwater fish of this magnitude, and needless to say, we may have been an ill bit unprepared and unlucky this past weekend. So unlucky that if I had been fishing alone, I probably would’ve dropped down in a heaping, sobbing, self-loathing mess and given up fishing forever. But since I was with two best friend, it turned into one of the most hilarious, ironic, and gut-bustingly funny weekend I’ve had in a long time.

Having said that, here is my list of things NOT to do when fishing the Salmon River. Enjoy :)

 

1. Do NOT bring a reel that has no handle: Yes, my friend dug out his spin caster upon arrival only to find that it was missing a handle. A handle to a reel is not really something you check for regularly, most of the time you just make sure a reel of some sort is there. When the reel emancipated itself from it’s own most crucial appendage, we cannot say. It is probably living a happy life in it’s own apartment somewhere in Western NH,  since that was where he used it last, a year ago. So DO check all your gear, even for little things like handles.

2. Do NOT use your best flies on your first casts: I picked up 5 glo-bugs/egg flies before heading out to NY. I came back with 0. I don’t usually use glo-bugs or gaudy salmon streamers because I don’t normally fish for these. So these were picked up solely for this trip.  My mistake was tying one on with a split-shot sinker right when I reached the water. I was so excited to get there, with all the fishermen casting around me, lusting to pull out a 20 inch steelie. What I forgot to mention was that the river was flowing at over 1,800 cfs, waaaay faster than what I’m used to fishing. So what happened? Snagged on rocks, weeds, and downed trees. The bane of any nymph fisherman’s existence. Word of advice, get a feel of the water flow and riverbed structures with your crap flies before using your good flies, in this case, you’re only set of flies for fishing this area.

Continue reading »

 

So you’ve decided to buy a compound bow. Congratulations, you’re one step closer to being totally bad ass. And another congratulations for coming to the right place to find out how.

This article is going to ask a few questions and come up with some answers. These are the same things I wondered when I set out to buy my first bow,  and I think they are the best way to pass on the gained experience.

If you plan to use it for hunting, this article will be focused primarily on you, as it’s what I plan to do with mine.. If you are planning to use it for target shooting or competition, this article still applies to you. But luckily, you have quite a few more options and considerations, which I will address later.

What’s my price range?

Compound bows, like pretty much any piece of sports equipment, can vary widely in price. You will see bows for $50 to $1,500, it’s just a matter of what you’re willing to spend. And like many things, you get what you pay for. A new bare bow of upper entry to mid-level quality will run you about $350-$550, depending on your tastes. Higher end bows start around $600 and go upwards to well over $1,000. However, if this is your first bow, I would ballpark spending $500 at most for a total setup including a used bow, arrows, block target, release, and a tune-up. Notice, I said “used” bow. For starters, unless you’ve got the cash flow to warrant a new rig, I would recommend a used bow.

Why Buy A Used Bow?

Well, frankly, because you beat on it! You’re going to drop this thing, probably dry fire by accident (happens when you don’t keep your finger off the release trigger), ding it off rocks and trees, and want to tinker with the settings. A used bow won’t make you feel guilty when you scratch up that purdy camo dip.  A used bow will also be easier on your wallet, in case you decide you hate archery (which happens quite a bit). Which, in fact, works toward your advantage because there are plenty of people offloading bows they never use anymore. There are also plenty of people obsessed with archery that love to upgrade their rigs to the newest models every year, and sell their older models for modest prices.

Continue reading »

 

Setting up a basic emergency plan is something every man needs to do. Whether you are the head of your household, a devoted son, or just a conscientious boyfriend, having a plan for when the “light’s go out” is always necessary.

We, as humans, are very poor at planning ahead for future mistakes. However, we are exceptionally good at learning from past ones (for the most part). It’s a matter of programmed conditioning. Burn yourself once by touching a hot stove, and you’re likely never to do it again. But planning ahead NOT to touch that stove is an entirely different matter. A lot of boils down to psychological conditioning and instinctual learning behavior, which we don’t need to get in to right now.. But for argument’s sake, if you’ve ever experienced a power outage or emergency requiring you to think fast, what was the first thing that came to mind? Was it, where are the flashlights? Do they have batteries? Do we even have flashlights?

Times like these are when we need to step up, take charge, and to have planned ahead. While the nature of emergencies like these vary from a basic blackout to a prolonged natural disaster like a hurricane or flood (or both), there is a short list of things you can do now to start a basic emergency plan. For the sake of this article, let’s consider a basic power outage and three essentials: lighting, water, and food.
Continue reading »

 

The thought of giving a wedding toast usually provokes fear and worry in most people, but it doesn’t have to be that way. Giving a wedding toast, whether you’re the best man, the maid of honor, or a family member, boils down to delivering a good speech. A good speech boils down to talking about something worth listening to. Simple as that. All too often this important part of a wedding ends up becoming a formality and a source of anxiety for the speech giver. It usually winds up as a nervous, forced, and generally lackluster performance. Don’t let your speech be forgotten by the time salads are served. This is a moment to shine.

While there’s no real template to giving a good wedding toast, there are a few things to do and not to do. And some things to think about to give a speech that the bride and groom and the audience will love and remember.

Deliver on Compelling, Developed, Personal Content.
The best speeches are ones that have heartfelt, engaging, and personal content. Think of it like a good story, it connects, develops,resolves, and concludes. In fact, good stories make excellent speeches. If the audience can connect with you, they care about your speech and where it goes (its called captivating the audience, you’ve heard that term before). The worst speeches are centered around “so and so is such a great/fun-loving/caring guy/girl.” Of course they are. You wouldn’t be giving this speech to room full of people if they were an asshole. Skip that. Everyone’s heard it. Take some time to examine your relationship with the bride or groom and why you think you were chosen to give this speech. Ask yourself some serious questions. Here are some to get you started:
Continue reading »

© 2011 Manual of Man I don't claim to be an expert at anything, don't consider me one. Attempts at anything I've done, advise, or promote are at your own risk! Suffusion theme by Sayontan Sinha