Review: Tusk Fuel Line Quick Disconnect

Tusk Fuel Line Quick Disconnect

I have seen some fuel line quick disconnects on the market that are used in race cars when fuel lines need to be quickly disconnected. They usually ranged from $15-$25, which I initially thought was pretty steep. Being that I work as a product developer during the day, I scoured Mcmaster-Carr, Grainger, and other industrial supply vendors for the “original” part. (Normally, a lot of motorcycle parts, accessories, and hardware can be sourced for much cheaper through the suppliers than through a point of sale vendor if you’re willing to do some searching). However, this was one of the few parts that seems to be made specifically for its application in customizing.

For most old Honda CB’s, removing the fuel tank is a pain in the ass. Ironically, you wind up having to do it a lot when accessing the main wiring trunk, working on the top end of the motor, or even some carburetor work. The part that I don’t look forward to is draining the entire tank because of the reserve-to-main crossover line. Because of this line, which has no shut-off like the petcock, you have to drain the entire fuel tank.

And whenever I have to drain gas, I wind up spilling gas. And then stinking of gas.

I ordered this part off Amazon by Tusk for about $15 with free shipping. It came in quick, but I didn’t have a chance to install it a few months later when I replaced the petcock and fuel lines on my bike. Installation was pretty simple.

Tusk Fuel Line Quick Disconnect

Either cut your existing line to accept it or cut new hoses to the right size to accommodate for it in the space under your tank. When I finished installing everything and gassed up the bike, the quick connect fitting leaked like the Exxon Valdez.

I thought maybe I had not fully seated the two halves together and valve was not fully engaged.  The valves perform well for holding back gasoline when the coupling is disengaged. But, I’ll warn you, when you go to connect the two halves together, the second the male side begins opening the female valve, it will start dripping gas, so you’ve got to be quick.

I checked this a few times, by disconnecting and reconnecting it. It still maintained this slow, almost diffusive leak. It wasn’t a steady drip, but such a slow leak that you had to watch the fitting to see it, since a lot of the gas would be evaporating as it leaked out.

I sourced it back to the female end, which I placed on the petcock side of the connection. Towards the back end of the fitting, there seems to be a union of where the barb fitting connects to the “main” housing of that side, which contains the valve joint. Right at this connection there is a small ridge, indicative that it’s not a single molded piece. The two parts of this half of the fitting must be pressed or ultrasonic welded together during manufacture, and in this case, it was done poorly.

So, after realizing this, I had to drain the tank again and remove the fitting entirely, returning to a single piece of hose for the crossover. I was going to throw the part out, since it was over 30 days for a return, but decided I’d try to seal the connection. I applied a liberal coat of some Permatex gasket maker around it and let it dry. For the time being, its not leaking gas that I’ve let stand in a small piece of tubing connection to the fitting. I don’t how this will hold up to direct gas contact long term, since there’s not many “appliable” compounds that will hold up to gasoline for extended periods of time.

Also, I just thought of trying the connection again but flipping the male and female sides. This might at least reduce the propensity for the connection to quickly leak when first connecting it. But I doubt it would get rid of the slow leak.

I just wanted to share this experience with anyone thinking about putting one of these guys in. I would recommend that if you buy it, immediately test it for leaks, rather than let it sit in a parts box until you decide to install it. Also, test it off the bike with some spare hose so you’re not finding this out when there’s gas dripping over your freshly painted motor. That way, if you get a bad part, you can still exchange it.

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